It is funny, as often as we eat on this trip, one would think you would not wake up hungry, but that is not the case. Every morning we see the same smiling faces being helpful and friendly without being overbearing as breakfast is served. The crew works very hard on little sleep between cleaning up from the night before and having to wake early to prepare the breakfast and dining room. After breakfast it is excursion time once again.
Today our posse split up again. Four folks decided to take the 6-mile hike through the vineyards to the ruins of Burg Ehrenfels (Ehrenfels Castle). The remainder of us had two adventures in our excursion this morning. We will start in Siegfried’s Music Cabinet Museum and then have a gondola ride from downtown Rüdesheim to the top of the mountain. The later was my choice, while Janet took the hike option. With a kiss, we divided the camera gear and headed off in different directions. Both excursion options left a small amount of time to enjoy the Christmas Market upon our return.
The hikers set off through town only to be greeted by Saint Nicholas on their way. Today is his day!
In Germany on St Nicholas day, gifts are delivered next to your shoes. Of course, Christmas is still the big holiday, but no gifts.
Christmas day is more about the family coming together to share a meal and being together on this day to commemorate the birth of Christ. I think I like that tradition.
Entering a groomed trail through the vineyards the walkers began their climb to the castle.
Row after row of grape vines lined the trail. In this area there are very few large wine producers because of family land, or really, I should say family rows of grapes. Many of these tracts have been owned by local families for hundreds of years. Vineyard rows have been divided by death and added through marriage, but suffice it to say by the markings on the poles and the different styles of pruning and care these rows are owned by many.
There were a few hardy workers doing winter pruning as the hike moved closer to Burg Ehrenfels.
Looking up the hill, the gondolas could be seen as they made way to the Niederwalddenkmal, which is the other group’s destination.
Reaching the castle which has stood majestically overlooking the Rhine since the 1200s it was time for a short break. Built as a defensive structure, and with a smaller tower riverside serving as customs, revenue was collected from the river traffic.
Then the deadliest war on the European continent occurred. The castle was heavily damaged in the Thirty Year’s War, and finally destroyed to ruins by the French in the late 1600s. The walkers worked their way back to town along the river.
The non-walkers stood in a damp chill waiting for the mini-train to take us into town. No one really knew what to expect. Siegfried’s Music Cabinet Museum… a museum of player pianos? Well, it was so much more than that. With over 350 music cabinets on display in a 15th century Knight’s Manor, the place was happening. Music was everywhere, and the mechanical feats and craftsmanship of these instruments capture the sounds like you were at a live performance, all while residing in beautiful pieces of furniture.
Siegfried’s was a very pleasant surprise and an interesting tour. Just to walk through the house and see the wall paintings and chapel is well worth a visit, but the music it is very special.
Exiting the museum, we had about 30 minutes to kill before the gondola began to run. The Christmas Market had not opened yet either. What to do... what to do....
FLASH: When in Rüdesheim one should grab a Rüdesheimer Kaffee!
What is Rüdesheimer Kaffee you ask. Well it is...
...four cubes of sugar placed into a specially designed cup. A miniature of Asbach (German Style Cognac) is poured over the sugar and then lit on fire. Once the alcohol has burned off (or at least most of it), coffee is poured over the top and then covered with very heavy whip cream and chocolate sprinkles. If there is anything which would prepare me to take a gondola ride on a freezing day and also being scared of heights it would be – a Rüdesheimer Kaffee! CAUTION: The coffee is some kind of hot after the fire so one must hold the cup’s bottom flair or suffer an extreme burn.
Fortified, we marched to the gondola, and after climbing about 100 feet of steps we arrived on the platform to board our airborne chariots. To Niederwalddenkmal and beyond!
We soared a hundred feet above the beautiful vineyards below.
I never felt uncomfortable during the 10-minute ride, and the views were so wonderful that they far exceeded any fear one may have of heights during the transit. I think we all enjoyed our ride and even saw a VIP along the way.
After lunch, AMAKRISTINA’s engine came to life and everyone prepared for what was to come.
Hat, gloves, camera, binoculars, blankets, and something to toast the past were collected and we headed to the upper deck. Captain, The Rhine River Gorge lay dead ahead!
As I stated earlier it was a cold damp day and as the day had progressed the winds had also picked up. These winds when added to the motion of the boat and the water made the upper deck a chilly environment. Lucky for us we were able to snuggle behind a wind screen for the 65-km ride through the most amazing waterway through history.
Over the next few hours, with our cruise director providing historical background over the loud speaker system, the ship made it way through this very narrow stretch of the river. The sheer hills that border on both sides of the river bank are primarily slate and some of the finest wines in the world began on these slopes. Vineyards, small towns, and over 30 castles or ruins provided us views that are embedded in our minds forever. Instead of trying to tell you about each of castles or which town is which, I share the following pictures to entice you to see them also. In no particular order... just a short glimpse of the Rhine Gorge
As our bones were reaching the freezing point...
what would happen to appear...
but one of the crew carrying a tray of Rüdesheimer Kaffee!
(you thought I was going to say reindeer - didn't you)
Have I said how good the crew of AMAKRISTINA treated their passengers? If not, it is officially on record – These guys and gals are good!
One of the most unique sights along the way was as we approached the end of our day of castle watching. A small town had two buildings that are usually not connected.
The white building in the center of the picture is a bar/restaurant. Attached to the bar is a church. The entrance to the church is through the bar. Now that is something I am sure you will never find in Virginia, but would be extremely convenient if the sermon ran on too long.
Downstairs and inside, we began to warm up. There was more to come. This day kept getting better and better because tonight was our turn for the Chef’s Dinner. We were in for a treat!
In the very aft of the ship there is a beautiful dining room with 180 degrees of glass that allows for one to have an amazing view of your surroundings. It is one the most beautiful spots for a meal I have ever experienced.
The posse had been using this special room as our morning gathering place or just one more bottle of wine before we called it a night all week. Isolated from the ship, it was our hide out.
Tonight’s Chef’s dinner was wonderful and the service top notch.
Simply put – Life is good!
Bedtime – Cologne in the morning and a new adventures to be had!
Awesome blog!! Love reading about things I did not experience because I was off doing something else. It is also fun to see things from a different perspective. This will be a fabulous keepsake of a perfectly awesome trip with the best of friends!! Thanks, Tom!!
ReplyDeleteSally it sure was fun - promise more to come. Instead of real time this trip - It will be in the flashback mode :)
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