coming in from the cold...

After a full day in Rüdesheim, with lots of fresh air, we crashed hard, but not before leaving our AMAKRISTINA slippers outside the door. We awoke early, and I immediately went to the door to check to see if Saint Nicholas had come. Sure enough, in our slippers there were two chocolate treats! Yippee, I knew he was real!

We headed down for breakfast knowing that today would be another great day on the river. While sipping my second cup of coffee, AMAKRISTINA’s lines were being secured on the Cologne wharf. The ship was docked only a few blocks from Köln-Altstadt (Old Town) so today no buses would be needed. The weather had finally warmed up to the low 40s and the sun could be seen peeking out occasionally. Our excursions for the day both involved a walking tour through the old town, with one being a little longer and the other finishing with a Kölsch beer tasting.

Off Ramp - Not being a beer aficionado by any stretch of the imagination, I do know that Kölsch is top fermented, light in color, and much like a pilsner, but it is an ale, not a lager. There are many craft breweries making a “Kölsch Style Beer”, but only in Cologne can one drink Kölsch. The beer is enjoyed in small straight glasses that seem never ending. More on that later…

Once again, the posse separated, with 4 of us taking the longer walk option, and the rest opting for the tour with a beer tasting. I was so excited that I would finally not have to wear a bulky coat, gloves, and hat.  Janet cautioned me that I may be too optimistic, so I did take my hat and gloves.

Departing the ship with only a vest, we were off. Walking along the river that had been our highway for the last week, we had views of the Cathedral, the musical dome, and the colorful historic river front properties. Like Heidelberg, the threat of flooding is a constant concern. Cologne has a river walk which is beautiful, but also provides safeguards to normal flood levels. But when the one hundred year flood comes down the river, Cologne also has a modular flood wall that adds another 11 feet of protection by just popping in the wall like Legos. Of course, some assembly required.


We turned off the river walk and headed into the old town. The Christmas markets had not opened, but everyone was busy getting ready for the day. One of the parks had been turned into an ice rink that meanders through the center of this market.

There are multiple markets that run parallel to the river and each one is beautiful. The smells of food were amazing, and each market offered their own version of mulled wine, and of course Kölsch for the beer lovers.

Our tour went into the old town hall where a piece of modern art hung from the ceiling of the atrium and just a short distance down the hallway we visited the ruins of the ancient Roman Praetorium, which is exposed for all to enjoy. Peaking around the corner we could see a wedding ongoing. In Germany, as is the norm in most of the world, a marriage can only be performed by the civil authority. If a couple wants to have a religious service they are free to have one, but that is after they have been married at city hall.

Awaiting outside the door was champagne… CORRECTION – Crémant d'Alsace for the newlyweds. Down the alley we saw the next couple having a smoke waiting for their turn to say their vows with a city official to close the deal. City Hall was a happening place!

With a history that dates back over 1500 years, one thing that can be said about Cologne is that their art and statues have a certain edge. For example take this bishop that is attached to the side of a historic building. He was very powerful around 1280, but got in a power struggle with the pope and then sold out his control of the city to an English king. He now stands reverently on a pedestal which is a sculpture of a young man pleasing himself. Oh My!





Then you have the gentleman who got in a fight a few centuries later with the mayor, so on his rain gutter he had a man going to the bathroom hooked onto the down spout. When it rains, he shoots towards the Rathaus (City Hall – appropriate name?).

Not to be out done, the mayor responded by adding a face to the clock tower of the Rathaus, and every hour the face sticks his tongue out at the squirting man.

And we think some of things we do today are inappropriate and petty.

On a serious note about Cologne art, there is a reproduction of Käthe Kollwitz’ sculpture the “Grieving Parents” in the church courtyard of Alt St. Alban, not far from a museum with a large collection of her works.

Losing her son in WWI, she began the statue multiple times, but destroyed it each time. She was suffering from extreme depression. Finally, in the early 1930s the statues were completed and placed in a cemetery in Belgium. It is where her youngest son Peter is buried. The message of these stones ring true no matter the time or place in history.

Just a few blocks away, there are the humorous statues of Tünnes and Schäl, two puppet characters cast in bronze. They represent a good-natured farm boy Tünnes and the city slicker Schäl. It is said if you rub Tünnes’ nose you will be returning to Cologne soon. I think every last one of us rubbed his nose. The back streets and courtyards of Cologne continued to reveal interesting things as our walk continued.






Of course, I cannot forget the original home of stink good stuff which originated in Cologne. 1709 is the Original Eau de Cologne made by Johann Farina.

This citrus fragrance is for men and women and its recipe is still a secret. It was this perfume that replaced the spices and herbs of days gone by.  A splash of this magic liquid multiple times of day was all one needed…


As the morning went on the temperature kept going down and the winds were beginning to howl. When our tour ended at the front of the Cathedral, we were all icicles.

Parting from our guide, we hustled into the Cathedral Church of Saint Peter to see this architectural wonder, and hopefully to escape the cutting wind. Just a few meters shorter than the tallest Cathedral in Ulm, the church is the final resting place of the Magi.

The three kings’ remains were brought from the Holy Land to Milan and then later transferred Cologne in 1180. The bishop of Cologne decided a better church was needed to house these precious artifacts and in 1248, the building began. After 225 years of effort it was still a work in progress, and in 1474 a stop work order was issued. It would not be until the 1800s when work began again. The Cathedral was completed in 1880 after 48 years of steady building.

The size and beauty of this manmade structure is overwhelming!  I took the following shot a little later, but I think it shows how magnificent the Cathedral is and how it dominates the skyline.

Leaving the building we were once again exposed to the winds. The four of us decided to head to the ship for lunch. Wait…the tour included a free glühwein at the Christmas market, and so with a slight detour and our tummies filled warm liquid, we headed back to ship for warmth and nourishment. And yes, WARMER clothes!

The Kölsch walkers did not return to the boat, so the four of us decided to set out on our own Ale Trail. I had done some pre-trip reading so I knew which brauhaus in particular I wanted to experience, Brauerei zur Malzmühle, which is the second oldest brewery in the city. We had to wait a few moments for a table as the lunchtime crowd was beginning to leave, but as soon as we sat down one of the Köbes (term for Kölsch waiters) was there with his beer tray. These trays are designed to hold a dozen .2 litter glasses and they keep them coming. The beer of the house was Mühlen Kölsch, and by the end of the day it was still the best of the day.

We asked the Köbes, where we could find the second best Kölsch in Cologne, and he gave us direction to Brauhaus Salzgass to try Päffgen Kölsch.

A very important lesson for anyone who wants to follow in our footsteps:  until you put something on top of your glass, the Köbes keep bringing beers. One can get in trouble in a hurry. Next stop was Peters Brauhaus, which by far was the most upscale of the beer houses we visited.

The glass ceiling was absolutely beautiful and the Kölsch was very good. BTW – There was logic to the journey.   We were slowly walking back to the ship through the Christmas Markets of Cologne one brauhaus at a time.

Janet spotted the ultimate Christmas gown in a store window.  No perfume required for that outdoor kind of girl.  I am not sure the dress would last too long in the desert of Arizona, but in Cologne it was cold and damp enough for it to survive the season.  It would take one special person to wear this gown.







The markets were now packed with people just having a good time.  There was some great people watching as we navigated through the crowds.

The last drinking hole on the trail was Sion. Just blocks away from the ship, we decided to sit outside and do some people watching.

Everywhere we went there was WIFI, so we sent out a WhatsApp message to the posse to join us. Only one came to enjoy our last Kölsch in Cologne.

Upon returning to the AMAKRISTINA a little downtime was in order. The fresh air enjoyed and the libations of the trail demanded that we take a power nap to prepare for our big evening. Tonight is another special night. It is the Captain’s Dinner, and rumor has it a special guest may make an appearance!

The guests gathered in the main lounge for cocktails and Christmas cheer before dinner. The Captain introduced his lieutenants, the hotel manager, the engineer, and the cruise director.

Each one of them introduced their staff. I know I have said it before, but the staff on this ship is top notch. The ship is sparkling clean and the food is second to none. I was amazed that all of this was done with 45 crew members.

We headed down to the main dining room and once again our dinner was spectacular, with service that was second to none.  I did take pictures of each of the courses, but food photography is an art form I have not mastered and I do not think it would be fair to the chef to show these inadequate shots. I am a big fan of Beef Wellington and the AMAKRISTINA kitchen nailed it!



After dinner we headed back to the lounge for entertainment as the crew sang Christmas carols.  I think everyone aboard had a good time and appreciated the music of the season.

Santa arrived with gifts for all. The smallest guest onboard got the most attention from the man in red.  She was sooooooo excited!

And of course, the Rhine River Gang could not pass up a photo opportunity with Santa.

It was late when we crawled into the bed. While we slept AMAKRISTINA made her way north. It would be our last night cruising. We would leave the Rhine River and enter the Amsterdam Canal with just two more locks to go till our final destination.

 

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